Aloha Hawai'i

Aloha from the land of fragrant lei's, blue skies, sunshine, volcanoes, warm, blue water and amazing sea life. After 6 hours on a freezing cold plane, I arrived in the open-air airport of Maui where it was 80 degrees in the shade. All the walkways to and from are covered but windowless. I stayed at the Northshore Hostel in Wailuku and spent my first full day exploring by foot and bus. The bus system on Maui is pretty good: $4 will get you around the island all day to most places you want to go. The only problem is, if you miss your bus it is one hour in between. Fortunately for me I had the best bus driver ever. He knew I was lost before I did! According to the bus schedule I was to get off at the first stop and change buses. So, that's what I did. As I stood there, looking at the schedule and the street sign, obviously unsure of myself, the bus driver waited. With some trepidation I went back on the bus and asked and he informed me that I wanted the next stop. Apparently that one was put in after the schedule was made. I was so glad he waited because it was at least 80 degrees at 9:00 in the morning, sun blazing and no shade to be had. At the next stop he even stepped off the bus to help me figure out where I was going and give me better directions. I walked around the town and beaches of Kihai for a few hours, and managed to see only one sea turtle. The next day I was on the first bus to Ma'alaea to catch the 6:15 boat to Molokai Crater to do some diving.

We went down at an area dubbed 'the aquarium', I'm assuming due to the crystal clear visibility to 100' and hundreds of beautiful fish and coral like one would see in a tropical aquarium. All sorts of butterfly fish, angel fish, parrot fish, black garden sea cucumbers, and even an amazing manta ray. It was enormous and incredibly graceful, with at least an 8' span and it just hung out, twice getting very near me. Being a new diver everything about it was so freaking cool!!! I was even fascinated by the bubbles; they looked all silvery, like mercury, and as they rose they got bigger but they weren't round, more spaceship shaped. Like a little kid, I was following them up and playing with them until my dive partner signaled me to come down. :-P On the second dive we were much closer to shore and saw some different sea life such as leaf fish, sea slugs, some different tropical fish, purple velvet sea stars, eels, sponge crab, and a large, majestic, green sea turtle! I was so excited!! Unfortunately he didn't feel the same way and casually swam away.

Four days on Maui was not nearly enough, especially without a car. I was fortunate to meet a lovely German lady who did have a car and invited me to join her and a couple others to the beaches. The first beach was quite secluded and stunning. Although there were a few others on it, it felt like it was just us and the Brazilian cardinals. The second beach was much more touristy but also quite beautiful. It always surprises me when ocean water feels like a bathtub. I did some snorkeling there and saw many of the same tropical fish I'd seen on my dive along with some very cool trumpet fish. Then we went to Lahaina to see the biggest Banyan tree in the USA. It takes up one city block. The cool thing about these trees is that their roots grow down from the tree and when they hit the ground they form new trunks. So one tree has many trunks connected by thick branches. They are now my very favorite tree! During my journaling the same few words keep coming up: amazing, awesome, spectacular. As someone who loves words, this lack of felicity was frustrating but I felt validated when my new German friend also said, unprompted, she has so few words, even in German, to describe the beauty and the feelings it inspires.

I had picked up a coconut at one of the beaches and brought it back to the hostel. That night we were trying to open it by throwing it off the balcony and against the curb, to no avail. It was quite the event actually as about half the guests were outside watching the spectacle and shouting suggestions. After about five minutes of watching us, a woman sitting in a van parked out front of the hostel, stepped out with a machete and said, "Maybe this will help." LOL! I love Hawaii!!!

We also went to the IAO Needle which is really just a very beautiful, lush, green hills and valley area with rivers and overall Hawaiian beauty. It was a short thing to do but we were somewhat limited on time as Irene, the German lady, was leaving that day. It was fine though, I needed to rest a bit; I guess I'm getting old...

Next stop, Hawai'i! I heard so many people rave about Maui that I really had no expectations for The Big Island. Yet within my first hour there I already had a much higher opinion of it than Maui. So much more authentic. I arrived in Hilo on Farmers Market day and bought myself some produce at reasonable prices (for Hawaii) from real Hawaiians. I blindly purchased some things that looked very odd and most were good, like the rambutan and dragon fruit. The ruffly green bean things, not so much. Not bad but not good.

I still didn't have a car as they were all rented out due to the Ironman triathlon that was taking place. I was fortunate enough to meet someone while walking back to the hostel that was also staying there and had a car, although leaving the next day. He offered to take me somewhere so I said I wanted to see the lava flowing at the volcano Kilauea. So just before dusk we set out for the 40 min ride to Volcano National Park. It was cool because all along the road in the park there are active steam vents from the volcano we were driving across. Kilauea must be viewed at night to see the glow, otherwise it just looks like a bunch of smoke. It's not a flowing volcano but more of a spurting one in the crater bed. Nobody is allowed to get any closer than the park visitors center but if you look hard enough you can see the lava explosions. So freaking cool!!! After that we went to a Kava bar within walking distance of the hostel. Kava is a traditional, non-alcoholic, Polynesian beverage, made from the Kava root and tastes like dirt water. It is supposed to numb your tongue and relax your muscles but maintain a clear mind. I got the numb tongue thing but the other part was unaffected. Regardless, the whole ritual involved in drinking this (from a coconut shell no less!), and getting the education about it from the proprietor was really cool and I'm so glad I tried it.

The next day I invited myself to join some other people to Volcano National Park. It is a vast, barren area of miles and miles of black lava beds and they charge $10 per vehicle to see this. That guy is a genius. Reminds me of Tom Sawyer! Seriously though, it is quite spectacular. It looks so surreal, like something from a sci-fi movie. Then, out of nowhere grows this beautiful, flowering bush! And I love the way you can see the layers of swooshes where the lava had cooled during a down-hill flow. We also walked through a lava tube and over the lava than ran across the road. And, before we left we walked the 1.5 miles to the petroglyphs. That was interesting although nobody actually knows what they mean.

No rides on day two so I stayed local and walked 1.5 miles up hill to Rainbow Falls. Very beautiful but the unique part for me was hanging out at the top of the falls. I decided to walk back and get a couple things at the grocery store and spend the afternoon working on my blog. While in the store the skies opened up and torrential rains fell. I went back in, bought a large bottle of wine and when I was done, it had slowed to a light rain. I hurried back to the hostel a few blocks away and got there just in time as the downpour began again complete with thunder! I settled in with my iPod and iPad and a glass of red wine. Before the evening was over I had shared it with several other people and spent an enjoyable evening getting to know some new folks. I was even invited to explore the Waipi'o Valley the next day with an impressive young man. So, on my final day in paradise, we hopped on the bus, rode for about an hour then hitched a ride to the top of the valley. A lovely Dutch couple picked us up that had won their trip to Hawaii from a pizza box!!! I never believed anybody really won those things but they did! Anyhow, the black sand beach and Waipi'o Valley were amazing. I really have no words for the beauty so photos will have to do. My new friend and I had great fun creating rock stacks-which were by chance permanently captured in time by a very famous photographer, picking and eating fruit like coconut, pineapple guava and nene. It was an incredibly special day and I feel honored that he shared with me his favorite place on that side of the island. More confirmation that it is the human connections we make in life that make the journey most memorable.

Not having a car proved problematic on both islands. I did not get to do the Road to Hanna in Maui, or any of the things along it. Nor did I get to the south side of the big island which is where the diving, Luaus and other incredible sights are. So I'm sorry, Daddy, I didn't see any hula girls this time as they can only be found at the luaus. However I am already planning a return trip--with a rental car! As for my next adventure, I'm exploring Oregon: from the North to the South along the coast and over east to Crater Lake, Bend and wherever else my EOS takes me.

Aloha Oe, my friends!

The Practice Start

I was going to wait until it was time to leave to write this post but realized that, with all that's happened so far it would be entirely too long. Clay started Portland Community College and has made some friends and after four and a half months found himself a roommate and kicked me out, per our agreement. So October 1st I officially became homeless (and he finally got his drivers license). :-) Fortunately I still have his place as a "crash pad" but it was nice that some people came forward and offered me a place for a few nights here and there.

Finding an affordable, short-term place to live proved to be very difficult so I decided to start my adventure in the Pacific Northwest and beyond. I felt that I had gotten to know the Portland area pretty well (watching the swifts is one of my favorite Portland pastimes) even introduced things to people that had lived here for years. It was also a necessary step to get me into the right mindset as I'd been getting a bit lazy about things. I'm definitely one of those people that needs deadlines; too much free time makes me unproductive.

In August I started scuba lessons. I decided to get certified now instead of waiting until I was in Australia. After all, who knows what opportunities will present themselves to me between now and then. I want to be prepared for everything! Our open water dive test at Hood Canal on the Puget Sound in Washington was scheduled for the last weekend in September so I thought I'd go up early and check out Victoria, British Columbia in Canada. I drove to Port Angeles and left my car there because the ferry ride was considerably cheaper than leaving from Seattle and cars are completely unnecessary in Victoria. If you've never been, I'd highly suggest you go and plan to spend about a week on Vancouver Island. Victoria is the most charming place I've ever been, through and through. So idyllic, not just on the main strip but even for miles around. The old buildings are well maintained, the town is clean and the people are just great-- friendly, well mannered and genuine. (Food everywhere is excellent too.) In my two days there I met about five locals, all willing to share suggestions to make my experience in their town even better. One of which was to take a bike along the Galloping Goose trail to the Sooke Potholes. (How can one NOT take a ride on the Galloping Goose trail?!!) I was told they were about 30km away (about 18 miles). Although I hadn't really cycled since I moved to Oregon, I figured 40 miles round trip on a flat trail wouldn't be a problem so long as I had a nice rest between. Well, the trail was beautiful, tree lined, partially paved with nice rest stops along the way. About the 31 km mark I still hadn't seen any signs for the potholes and upon encountering a lady out for a stroll with her dog, I stopped and asked her how far they were. Ohhh---I still had a ways to go and the last portion would be uphill considerably. A later consultation with the map would determine I still had another 20km to go. That would be 60 miles r/t! I had gotten a late start and didn't prepare with food and water so I decided to continue on to Matheson lake, where I napped on the rocks in the sun for a bit, then ventured back, getting on the road to check out Witty's Lagoon in Metchosin as suggeseted by the kind lady I met on the trail. It was an easy ride on quiet streets and the lagoon proved nice with a lovely waterfall to boot. But it was after 3:00 and getting dark with threats of rain so I cut the visit short and continued on the road in the opposite direction to meet up with the trail a bit further down. All was good and well until I hit a curb going down hill about 20 mph and took a nasty spill. I think I actually bounced! Thank God BC has helmet laws otherwise I wouldn't have been wearing one (and would have ended up in the hospital without insurance. :-/) I never would before but will always don one from now on! I racked myself pretty good, ended up with some road rash on my hands and elbow and bruises so large and numerous I'm surprised I had any blood left to circulate throughout my body. I sat for a moment and, after getting over the shock, got back on the bike and rode the remaining 15 miles back to the hostel. That was, without a doubt, the most painful shower I'd ever taken! The bright spot is that the iPod I was wearing on my left arm survived unscathed!

All plans to check out the rest of the island the next morning on bicycle were scrapped. I had so little energy and was in so much pain! Although it wasn't bruised, I landed on my left arm pretty hard and was limited in its mobility. Some of the bruises didn't show up for a couple days, like the one on my eye. I'm pretty sure my sternum was bruised too. So I went to Murchies, a quaint little tea shop with the most delectable pastries, and sat there most the day on my iPad, drinking a proper pot of tea and eating the best almond croissant ever! The ferry wasn't scheduled to leave until 3:00. With some help I donned my backpack and walked to the dock to board the ship where I found a seat and took a nap, only waking long enough to finish my croissant and go back to sleep until we reached port. I was first to arrive at the house in which my scuba mates and I were to stay in Lilliwaup, Washington. When the dive instructors arrived they asked how I was doing. Upon telling them what happened the previous day, they immediately set themselves to figuring out how to best accommodate me during the dives (two each day) as I was determined to go forward with it. I wanted to dive at Octopus Hole and I wanted my certification! The water there maintains a constant 50 degree temperature year round so a thick, 7 mm wet suit complete with hood and gloves was a must! I was paired with Dave, the owner of Under Water Works, for the entire weekend. Thankfully so or else I'm not sure I would have passed. He was extremely patient when I was troubled and had to surface during my skills tests and when I needed to rest because I found it very difficult to catch my breath at the surface. There were several other ways he accommodated me and I can't say enough good things about him. And the dives were spectacular! Although I didn't see an octopus, on our descents down to 40 feet I did see some giant, beautiful tubular anemone in both orange and white, three kinds of crabs including purple shore crabs, spiny, spotted yellow sea cucumbers. giant white star fish and regular sized orange star fish, schools of fish, loads of cute young shrimp that just jump about, almost dancing, and the most beautiful white, ruffled sea slug! I don't recall the technical names of most of these but no matter, it was amazing!

Determined not to let a few scrapes and bruises get me down I went for a run Sunday morning. My first 5K was to be the following weekend and I hadn't run since Tuesday. I needed to keep in shape. Out of boredom I cut it short but still managed to run 2.3 miles at 10:34/mile. A personal best for sure! Then after our last dive on Sunday I drove 77 miles and took the Bainbridge Ferry to Seattle. It was a good trip in that I met some young travelers who gave me some great pointers on places to go and how to find places to work in different countries but otherwise it was a waste of money. I woke up Monday morning, after barely sleeping, walked around a bit then went to Pikes Market. Three blocks long, with the most amazing selection of fresh flowers, seafood and crafts it was certainly something to experience. But who knew it would be so crowded during a late September Monday! Unfortunately I didn't take any photos as my arm was hurting and it was too much effort. I got a bite to eat then went back to the hostel and took a nap. I woke up only to go get dinner then back to bed to read and sleep. It was the first opportunity my body had to rest and recuperate. The next morning found me sleeping late, eating breakfast and reading in bed until check out time. Just zero energy. I got home in the afternoon and took a nap and spent the better part of the next two days sleeping.

October 4th I ran my first 5K: the Electric Run at the Portland International Speedway. It was a nighttime run and I got all decked out with glow in the dark stuff and finished-happy to have managed to run the entire time- in 33 minutes. The live band, light show and party afterwards were off the hook! It was super fun; a spectacular first organized run experience! Again, no pictures, I'm sorry.

Now I'm off to spend nine days in Hawaii, Maui and the big island, practicing my new scuba skills in warm water and climbing some volcanos. I promise I will have photos from there in my next post.